Thursday, January 15, 2009

Loie Fuller's (33 of 50)

Restaurant: Loie Fuller's
Cuisine: French/American
Price: somewhat expensive
Score: 33
Would I eat there again: NO

Loie Fuller's is one of the best decorated restaurants in Providence. It is very nicely lit with tile mosaics on the floor, stylish paintings and beautifully detailed woodwork. They also have a good drinks list with some excellent beers on tap (La Chouffe) and a decent wine list. If the review could end right here- we would have an amazing restaurant!

Unfortunately the food (and to some extent the service) was lacking. Our server was kind and helpful, but the front of house team seemed either understaffed (unlikely given how slow the restaurant was) or rather indifferent. Not the deliberate abuse a al Julian's, but more of a general malaise- a restaurant on a long, slow slide downwards.

The food seemed to be affected by a similar apathy. There are clearly good ingredients used, and the menu reads well, but the overall architecture of the dishes falls short. Scallion and Pistachio Ravioli ($13 for 6 average size ravioli- and nothing else) had a delicious center, but the pasta was very sad. Either dried out or freezer-burned, it tasted as if the moisture had been driven from the dough, leaving a hard tacky shell. Braised wild boar($18) with roasted squash was tasty, but a tad plain. The best food we got was actually combining the two dishes- ravioli with braised boar on top was quite excellent! Everything was thoroughly doused in butter, which helped with the taste if not the impression of an artfully crafted meal.

Perhaps my expections were set to high- but when I see a gorgeous room with good drinks and good looking menu (and relatively small portions for the price) I somehow expect greatness. That was lacking.

The decor is impressive and very well thought out. Unfortunately the night we visited the food was not of the same caliber. There was great potential in the dishes- but the balance was just not there. For a similar experience (but better food), I would have to recommend Julians or La Laiterie.
Loie Fuller's on Urbanspoon


Anonymous said...

You're a fucking idiot.

Anonymous said...

Though I don't agree with Anon.'s use of potty language, the whole tone of the "F. idiot's" review was about VALUE instead of harping on the "DECORATIONS" You mean decor?